By | 04 July 2020 | 0 Comments
How to Cover a Popcorn Ceiling
Popular for their affordability and easy application, popcorn ceilings were all the rage in the late 1950s. Today, many consider the raised, speckled texture to be an eyesore that detracts from contemporary décor schemes. Unfortunately, completely removing a popcorn coating is very time-consuming, messy, and can even be dangerous due to the potential for asbestos in the material. If you are looking to ditch your dated ceiling, however, there are several options for covering the popcorn texture with a new material that adds style and flair to your space!
1. Covering with Drywall
1) Locate and mark the ceiling joists. Place a stud finder at various points across the ceiling in order to locate your ceiling joists. A stud finder is a handheld device that electronically detects when it is placed on top of ceiling studs—the boards that hold your ceiling in place. Mark the location of the ceiling joists with a pencil or chalk line.
- It is important to locate studs in your ceiling because you'll want to screw the drywall directly into these boards.
- Your drywall may eventually loosen and fall if it is not affixed to the ceiling joists.
- Although less reliable, you can also attempt to tap on the ceiling with your hand in order to find the studs. You may be able to notice a subtle, dense feeling when you come across a stud. The non-reinforced portions of the ceiling will feel and sound more hollow.
2) Purchase 3⁄8 or 1⁄2 inch (0.95 or 1.27 cm) sheets of drywall and prepare them for hanging. Use a tape measure to find the exact distance between the ceiling joists, then measure and mark their location onto your drywall with a pencil. Use a flat, standard-sized surform sanding tool to smooth any rough edges on the drywall to minimize the number of seams you will create.
- When measuring and marking the location of your ceiling joists on the drywall, keep in mind that the standard distance between ceiling joists is either 16 or 24 inches (41 or 61 cm)
- If there are any places where you need to cut out holes for light fixtures or vents, use a tape measure to find their location on the ceiling then mark those locations on the drywall as well. You shouldn't cut holes in the drywall until after it is installed, so you may need to remove light fixtures or vent covers from your ceiling before installing the drywall sheets.
3) Have a friend help you hold the drywall or rent a drywall lift. You won't be able to hold the drywall in place and install it at the same time. Ask a friend to help you while you install the panels to ensure the drywall doesn't fall while you're screwing it in place.
- You may also consider renting a drywall lift from your local hardware store. This will hold the drywall in place for you as you attach the drywall screws.
4) Secure the perimeter of the drywall to the ceiling joists with fasteners. Beginning in one corner of the drywall sheet, use a power drill or nail gun to start hanging the drywall with either screws or nails. Make sure to drive the fasteners directly into the ceiling joists, about 3.75 inches (9.5 cm) away from the edge of the sheet. Continue driving fasteners into the ceiling joist around the entire perimeter of the drywall sheet, spacing them roughly 7 inches (18 cm) apart.
5) Drive fasteners down the length of the interior ceiling joists. Using the marks you made earlier, drive nails or screws down the middle of the drywall to secure it to the ceiling joists. Space these fasteners roughly 12 inches (30 cm) apart.
- Continue this process, making sure to line the drywall sheets up as close to one another as possible until the entire ceiling is covered. As you near the end of covering the ceiling, you will likely need to measure and trim the final sheets with a knife or hand saw to create a perfect fit.
6) Cut out the holes for the vents or light fixtures if you need to. If you marked the location of any air vents, light fixtures, fan box holes, or anything else that extends through your ceiling, cut those holes out now. Use a safety blade to cut through the drywall along the lines you drew.
7) Use a 12 in (30 cm) drywall knife to apply a skim coat over the drywall. Mix a ceiling-rated joint compound in a large bucket. Dip your drywall knife or plasterer's trowel into the mud and begin to spread a thin coat across the drywall, covering the entire ceiling. Keep the knife or trowel level to the ceiling in order to apply the mud evenly. Use smooth, even strokes to minimize imperfections.
- Consider hanging plastic over the tops of adjacent walls with painter’s tape to avoid accidentally getting joint compound on painted walls.
- Joint compound, also called drywall mud, can be purchased at most hardware stores. Follow the instructions listed on the container label to know how much to mix based on your ceiling's square footage.
8) Apply a second skim coat. Allow the first coat to dry overnight, then apply a second coat of mud. Apply the second coat by moving your trowel perpendicular to the direction of your strokes from the first coat. This will help to create a smooth, even surface.
- The second coat is your chance to fill in any imperfections that you may notice in your first coat.
- Allow the second coat to dry overnight.
9) Sand and fill in any imperfections. Use a pole sander to smooth out any ridges in your dried mud coating. A pole sander is comprised of a pad that holds sandpaper at the end of a long pole. It is designed to help you reach the ceiling with ease and to give you greater leverage. Begin with a larger grit sandpaper that ranges from 100 to 180 on the grit count in order to remove any large chunks of misplaced mud. Switch to a finer grit sandpaper that ranges from 180 to 320 once the large pieces of plaster are gone in order to create a smooth, finished surface.
- If you notice any recessed areas, apply a thin layer of mud evenly with your trowel in between sanding passes. Allow the patches of mud to dry before going back over them with sandpaper.
- You can also use a powered drywall sander for faster results. You can rent powered sanders at most hardware stores.
- Make sure to wear goggles and a respirator while you are sanding.
10) Prime and paint over the skim coat. Allow the skim coat to dry completely before painting the ceiling. Use a roller brush with a long handle to apply a coat of primer to the ceiling.
- Make sure to cover the floor with a painter's drop cloth before painting.
- Use a paint brush to edge around the perimeter of the room, being careful not to touch the walls with paint. You can apply thin strips of painter's tape around the tops of the walls, where they meet the ceiling, for added protection (if you haven't already hung plastic over them).
- Once the primer has dried, you'll be ready to apply one or two coats of your ceiling paint. The drying time could vary based on the humidity and temperature of the room, so it is best to test whether the paint is dry by touching it. If the paint feels sticky or rubs off easily onto your fingers, it is not completely dry before applying your paint over the coat of primer.
- Wait for the paint to dry completely, then reinstall any light fixtures or vent covers that you removed during the drywall installation process. To ensure that you don't damage your new coat of paint, it is best to let it dry overnight before attempting to reinstall any fixtures.
2. Using Tin Ceiling Tiles
1) Measure and cut 3⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) plywood boards. Use a tape measure to measure the length and width of your ceiling. Before hanging your tiles, you will need to build a wooden scaffolding on your ceiling to hold the tiles. To calculate how many boards you will need for the scaffolding, draw a grid on a piece of paper that represents the dimensions of your ceiling.
- Measure the width of the tiles and count out how many will fit along the length of your ceiling. This will determine the number of boards you will need, as you will need to place a board in between every two tiles.
- Use the measurement of your ceiling's width to trim your boards. Cut each of the boards to fit the width of your ceiling.
- While you can use a hand saw to cut the plywood, a circular saw will create an even cut more quickly. You can rent circular saws from most hardware stores.
2)Locate and mark the ceiling joists. Use a stud finder to locate and mark your ceiling joists with a pencil or chalk line. A stud finder electronically detects the presence of your ceiling joists—the wooden boards that hold your ceiling in place—underneath the drywall.
- It is important to locate your ceiling joists because you will need to hang your plywood boards by driving screws through them.
- Your ceiling's drywall alone is not sturdy enough to support the weight of the plywood boards.
3) Remove light fixtures and create a plywood scaffolding. Carefully remove any light fixtures or vent covers, then fix the boards to the ceiling by driving a nail into the ceiling where the boards overlap with the ceiling studs. You'll need to position the plywood boards perpendicular to the direction of your ceiling joists. This will ensure that the boards stay securely in place.
- You will need to enlist assistance in order to hold the boards securely while nailing them.
- The plywood creates a secure base onto which you'll nail your tin tiles.
- You may need to use a sander or small pieces of wood, known as shims, to fill in any uneven spaces between the boards and your ceiling. This will create a level surface for hanging your tiles.
- Make sure not to cover any fixture or vent holes with the plywood boards.
4) Use a tape measure to locate the exact center of the room. Refer back to your ceiling dimensions, dividing both the room length and width by two. These numbers will give you the location of the center of your room.
- Measure half the length of your room by running your tape measure along the top edge of your wall. Place a mark where the ceiling and wall meet.
- Beginning at this mark on the wall, measure half the distance of your ceiling's width by running your tape measure straight out into the center of the ceiling. Make sure to keep your tape measure square to the wall that runs the width of your room as you measure.
- Place a mark in the exact center of the room.
5) Hang your first tile in the center of the room. Placing your tile over your center mark, position the edges of the tile in line with the plywood boards. Use the perpendicular chalk lines that mark your ceiling joists in order to square the top and bottom edges of your tile. Secure the four corners of the tiles to the plywood with finishing nails.
- Consider using a nail gun in order to speed up the process.
6) Nail the remaining tiles in straight lines on each side of your center tile. Line up and attach subsequent tiles in straight rows emanating in all directions from your center square. You may need to use a level in order to make sure the tiles are lined up perfectly.
- Once you reach the edges of your ceiling, you may need to trim the tiles in order to create a perfect fit. Tin snips will cut easily through your tiles, which may be too thick for other cutting tools.
- Reinstall any light fixtures or vent covers you may have removed during the installation of your tile.
- Tin ceiling tiles provide a nice, retro look that adds character, detail, and warmth to your space!
3. Hanging Fabric
1) Select a fabric color and pattern. Choose a fabric from your local fabric shop or from an online fabric seller. Covering your ceiling with fabric is an ideal option if you rent and are not able to cover your popcorn ceiling with more permanent methods. The fabric ceiling covering can be easily removed and won't leave behind any lasting damage.
- Consider using flat bed sheets or painter’s drop cloths, which may be cheaper than fabric.
- Choose a dark fabric color to create the illusion of openness, especially if you have a low-hanging ceiling. A darker ceiling than your walls can mimic the night sky, giving the impression of an open space.
- Look for interesting fabric patterns to add visual interest and character to your room. A patterned ceiling can anchor the design of any room.
2) Measure your ceiling in order to know how much fabric to purchase. Using a tape measure, measure the dimensions of your ceiling. Because fabrics are sold in varying widths, you'll need to check your fabric's bolt size. By doing some quick math, you can figure out how many yards of fabric you will need to completely cover your ceiling.
- For example, if your ceiling measures 10 by 10 feet (3.0 by 3.0 m), then you'll know that you need to purchase enough fabric to cover 100 feet (30 m).
- You will likely need an assistant to help you hold one end of the tape measure while you take down the ceiling dimensions.
- Don't worry about purchasing fabric to match the exact size of your ceiling. You'll need to trim the pieces as you hang them in order to create the perfect fit.
- It is best to order more fabric than you will need in case you make any accidental cuts.
3) Secure the fabric to the ceiling with a staple gun. Using an assistant, hold the fabric up to the ceiling to map out where you will place your first staples. If you are using one single sheet of fabric, begin stapling at the center of the room. Continue stapling in rows moving outward to the edges of the ceiling. Staple along the edges of the fabric where the ceiling meets the wall.
- Make sure to remove any light fixtures or ceiling vents before hanging the fabric. You may need to measure the location of the fixtures with a tape measure and cut corresponding holes in the fabric before it is hung. These can be reinstalled after your fabric is firmly in place.
- If you are using multiple strips of fabric, begin stapling at the edge of the room. Line the corner of the fabric up with the corner of the ceiling and place several staples close together along the edges. Continue stapling at a uniform distance along the edges of the fabric. Line up subsequent strips, allowing the edges to slightly overlap, and continue stapling in the same manner until the ceiling is completely covered.
- To create additional visual interest, you can gently bunch or fold the fabric before stapling. Keep in mind that this may require extra fabric. Calculate the number and size of your folds in order to determine how much extra fabric to purchase.
- If you prefer the ceiling to have a tent-like appearance, you can staple the center of the fabric and allow it to drape outward to the walls. You can then staple the edges of the fabric to the wall about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the ceiling. Creating this tent-like ceiling cover will require roughly 1 or 2 inches (2.5 or 5.1 cm) of extra fabric. The lower on the wall that you attach the fabric, in order to create a more dramatic drape, the more fabric you will need.
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